Monthly Archives: October 2012

With four units of troops finished (and a fast attack choice) I decided to work on one of the Necron vehicles and went right for the Triarch Stalker. This model will use one of my Elite choices and sports a “Heat Ray” capable of melting tanks into slag or firing as a heavy flamer to deal with tightly packed troops. As a bonus, if the Triach Stalker hits with its weapons it marks the target unit and the units in my force get to re-roll, their die rolls, to hit against the poor target. Should be pretty fun on the table.

It’s been a long time since I’ve done any serious model building and this kit was a great crash course. Started with cleaning and assembling all the parts…just look at all the plastic “crumbs”!

Necron WIPs 5

Leaving most of the model apart would help with painting. I used my airbrush to prime the model and get the base coat on, as well as add the green to the recessed areas. Initially was going to go for a glow effect but decided against it as it was too much.

Necron WIPs 7

The painting went well, again using a pretty simple scheme based on the GW Necrons, black armor bits lined with green…this time there was a lot of green edges. Took awhile but I am mostly happy with the results. Here and there I will go back and add some details and fix a few things.

Stalker 2

Stalker 3

Closing in the first 1000 points painted, just need to finish the Necron Overlord.

More to come.

Getting back into the hobby was easy, picking an initial army to build and paint was not. First I was going to go with one of the varied Space Marine armies but the desire to get something on the table quickly led me to the Necrons…and a sweet deal at retail greatly helped the decision.

The initial haul.

Necrons

Started with building and painting three boxes of Necron Warriors. These guys will form the backbone of my force and will be used in just about every game I play. Plus, these boxed sets come with the models needed to build Canoptek Scarab Swarm bases. Once I have more of the army done I intend to add another 12 warriors.

First 12 assembled and ready for paint.

Necron WIPs 1

Went with a pretty standard paint scheme for the warriors in an effort to get through them quickly and soon had 12 done.

Necron WIPs 2

…and then 36, along with 9 bases of Scarabs.

Necron WIPs 8

After priming them black I painted the base coat of the model with Citadel’s Leadbelcher and then used a wash of brown and black before going back with Leadbelcher and Vallejo Silver to so some suble highlights. For the weapons and some of the armored bits I used Vallejo Black with Citadel’s Emerald Green on the edges. Citadel Putrid Green was used for the eyes and highlighted on with some yellow on the eyes and other bright areas.

Again, going for a simple paint scheme with a small palette of colors throughout the army to promote a unified look and efficient painting time. I intend to back and do something more interesting with the green rods on the gauss flayers as well, but that can wait for a later date.

Next up were some Necron Immortals. These models proved a bit more time consuming to build as they each had a large gap in their shoulder armor where the front and back torso pieces met. I filled the gaps with liquid greenstuff and then sanded them down to a nice smooth surface…pretty happy with the results.

Necron WIPs 6

So far so good and with 770 points of Necrons done in roughly 3 weeks, the army is off to a great start.

In Part 2 I’ll go over the building and painting of a Triarch Stalker…

Paint Stripping

I purchased some poorly painted figures on eBay, or more accurately I purchased a case on eBay and it had some very poorly painted figures included for free.  Some of them were metal, old Space Marine scouts and Deathwing Terminators, and some were plastic.  They were mostly the old junky marshmallow marines from the 2nd edition boxed set, so I figured it would be a good time to experiment with paint stripping. I’ve tried a couple of things so far:

Simple Green D

I had some of this lying around from a basement renovation, and I’d heard good things about Simple Green, so I tried this first.  It is the “D” version, for disenfectant, which is not what people typically use, but that’s what I had. It specified diluting it 64:1, and I know that others have used it concentrated, so I just mixed it 1:1, which is still 32x concentrated.  Sadly, it did nothing, even after weeks of soaking.  Some of the paint came off, but probably not any more than a good scrub in warm water would have done.

Acetone

Acetone is the main ingredient in nail polish remover.  ”Professional” nail polish remover is 100% acetone, while the regular stuff is more diluted.  You can also buy it cheaper at a hardware store.  I used 100% Acetone, and soaked the figures for about 5 minutes.  The paint started coming off immediately.  I pulled the metal figure out and gave it a quick scrub with a toothbrush under running water, and then put it back in.  After the second batch, it was completely stripped with only tiny amounts of paint in the most hard to reach places.

Acetone also dissolves superglue, which is probably desireable so long as you’re expecting it.  I knew it would, the reason I had acetone in the first place was for superglue cleanup, but I didn’t expect it to do so as cleanly as it did.  The arms looked like they came right out of the blister.

Deathwing Terminator w/ Assault Cannon, Stripped

Acetone on plastic, I had a feeling wasn’t going to do well.  Plastics are hard to predict though, after all I store the acetone in a plastic bottle and it’s fine.  The paint was definitely coming off just like the metal figure, and when I pulled the marine out after only 5 minutes, I was presented with this…

Plastic Figure soaked in Acetone

I shed no tears of the sacrifice of this brave, ill-formed Marine, and found that the plastic was so soft that it was almost a gel consistency, capable of capturing fingerprints, yielding an interesting texture that looked very Nurgle-y.

Acetone + Marine + Fingers = Nurgle?

I threw a metal figure that appears to have been painted in enamel into the used acetone, and it didn’t do terribly much.  I don’t know if that’s because it couldn’t handle the enamel or if I’d already exhausted it’s stripping capabilities with dissolved paint, but I will try that again next with fresh solvent.

Lessons Learned

  • Simple Green D doesn’t work.
  • Acetone works great, on metal figures only.  Be aware that many multi-piece metal figures will have plastic arms/weapons.
  • Acetone strips superglue as well as it does paint.

Returned

It’s been about 10 years since the last time I built, collected and played 40k (or any miniatures wargame) and it feels good to be back. Last spring friends and I decided to look into the hobby once more and discovered that a new edition of Warhammer 40k was forthcoming and, rather than getting all excited about playing 5th Edition 40k, we waited to see what 6th would be like.

Suffice to say our group enjoys the new edition and I have enjoyed working with and painting models once again and, in a way, everything is new yet comfortingly familiar. This blog should help to keep us focused with frequent updates on our hobby progress as well as other hobby related topics. After all…

“In the grim darkness of the far future there is only war…and painting, scenery making, model building, rules discussion, battle reports, and so on…”

One of my first projects for my new game table was to build some walls.  Using the Hirst Arts mold #40, and some Merlin’s Magic stone, I created some blocks.

Hirst Arts Blocks

These blocks are great, they are all very uniform and have nice clean edges.  The problem is that I don’t want a wall with nice clean edges, I want one that is aged and battle-scarred.  Merlin’s is very hard stuff, you can throw one of these blocks at a concrete floor as hard as you want and it will barely ding it.  I remembered that when cutting a diamond, you need to use another diamond, and decided to use the toughness of the blocks against themselves in a high-tech rock tumbler, AKA a sacrificial bin.

Block Tumbler

You’ll notice that some of the blocks are broken, this doesn’t happen in the tumbler, I smacked a few of them with a hammer before tumbling them.  Also note that sometimes you’ll get bubbles when you cast things, you might have a spotted some bubbles in the first picture. This is a great use for those blocks, as the dust will fill in the bubbles and they’ll wear down enough that you won’t notice them in the end result.

You may also notice a color difference.  Some of these were test blocks made with Plaster of Paris.  I don’t recommend using that here, it is far too soft and they will wear much more quickly and thus differently.  I didn’t use most of them.

So now we have a bunch of blocks.  Rather than a free-standing wall, I wanted one with a base.  So I made some hardboard bases (a topic for another post) and set to work gluing them up.

Weathered Stone Walls

I initially used a glue gun, but it did not hold wherever I did not clean off the dust enough, plus it left lots of strands.  I eventually switched to Tacky Glue.  I made the bases big enough that a normal figure can stand on it when touching the wall, rather than at an odd angle.

Stone wall, base coat

After priming (not pictured) with black Krylon, I applied a liberal basecoat of Do It Best exterior latex paint, “Charcoal Kiln” color.  This stuff was like $16 for a quart and should last me for a very long time.  While at the store I grabbed a Benjamin Moore paint sample of “Iced Cube Silver” for $4 and drybrushed that on (not pictured).  Now for the fun part (i.e. the thing I’ve never done before), weathering.

Stone wall, scorch marks

I used Weather System’s “Soot” pigment, applied with a toothbrush to the areas that I had set up to show damage.  I put it on liberally, figuring I could easily re-paint over any areas, and I’m also going to apply some creeping moss and perhaps try some other tricks.

This stuff is very messy! It’s like a heavier version of printer toner.  Put a damp paper towel down underneath your work area to catch and trap the excess.

I also experimented a bit with different washes, including Army Painter Medium Tone and Strong Tone as well as a number of Citadel colors.  I ended up being happiest with Nuln Oil, but I wasn’t thrilled with it.  I had recently watched Buy painted! talk about oil washes, so that will be the next step.

To be continued…

Hello everyone!

After a ~12 year hiatus, I’m back into the 40k hobby.  I won’t bore you with 6th Edition “impressions” but I will say that I really like the latest version.  I got into the hobby during the insanity that was 2nd edition and faded out of the hobby after the debacle that was 3rd edition.  This latest version seems to be the best yet from my own impressions and that of many others.

My Imperial Guard army was lost in the warp, but my Dark Angels have returned to service, bolstered by some reinforcements from the Auctionarium (AKA eBay).  Painting has resumed, a table has been constructed and is currently in the process of being terraformed.

To victory!